Kayaking the lower Spokane

Thanks to the Spokane Tribe, 16 Meet Me at the River paddlers had a special experience traveling the lower Spokane River last week. Check out the photos on our Facebook page.

The lower reach stretches 29 miles from Little Falls Dam to the confluence of the Upper Columbia (Lake Roosevelt). Some call it the Spokane Arm of Lake Roosevelt because its water levels rise and fall based on the operation of Grand Coulee Dam.

On the northern bank is the Spokane Indian Reservation. The southern bank is federal land managed by the National Park Service. Federal and tribal ownership make this one of the most untouched, scenic areas of the river.

We put in at Wyncoops on the reservation. Because the first public boat launch is fourteen miles downstream at Porcupine Bay, boats up this way are few and far between. We’re in high desert country, where the climate is arid with Ponderosa Pine and shrubs dotting the high banks of the river.  The morning is clear and cool. What you notice most is the quiet and the color of 12 kayaks.

Along the way, tribal experts talk about the salmon highway that once ran through this area, efforts to restore and recover what’s left of the native fishery, and support for walleye and other sport fisheries. As we get closer to the tribe’s Blue Creek campground, the river broadens out and the power boats become more prevalent.

After a day of paddling, contented faces play in the water, set up tents and start thinking about food. Just when minds are starting to politely wonder how dinner will appear, Bill Matt’s pick-up comes rolling down the hill with a salmon and chicken feast. Life is good.

After eating, Bill treats us to stories of the area. His stories weave together into a larger picture of how his people feel and care for the area as only those with a nine thousand year history can. The camp fire is lit, and more stories told amongst friends. Those that didn’t know each other when they started, now have a bond that makes talk easy.

The next morning shines bright, breakfast is eaten, and paddles put back in the water. Twelve miles downstream is Fort Spokane. As the morning turns to afternoon, more and more boats share the waterway. Many people wave, others seem oblivious to our presence.

We arrive at the confluence, share lunch, thank the tribe and our river guides from Spokane Parks and Recreation, and begin our journey back to Spokane. As one person said, “It’s like we took a step back in time, a pause.” Thoughts turn back to daily lives, family and friends.

Memories remain. More connections to the river made.